Do You Think Modern Alternative Retinols Irritate Less?
- Nina Kemppi
- Jun 9, 2025
- 4 min read
Hi, Violet Gang!
Welcome to my blog. In this episode, I look at the alternative retinols such as bakuchiol, peptides, azelaic acid, glycolic acid, niacinamide and vitamin C. I really wanted to understand the differences between them and classic retinols. The first thing that you might be thinking is, which ones are better?
Well, are you pro-science or anti-science? Tough questions in the first paragraph, right?
But those are the core questions that divide people when choosing a retinol, in my mind. Then comes the actual skin condition in question.
Have you used retinol before? How did your skin react to it? Do you agree or disagree? Tell me in the comments. In The Violets’ land, diplomacy reigns.
Fun fact.
Classic retinols (like retinol, retinaldehyde, tretinoin) are synthetic forms of vitamin A.
🟣They are lab-made — originally, vitamin A could be sourced from animal products (like fish liver oil), but today the retinol used in skincare is almost always synthetic (vegan-friendly). It does not come from animals.
Alternative retinols (often called “plant-based retinols” or “bio-retinols”) are different:
🟣They usually come from plants that contain compounds which mimic the effects of retinol on the skin but are not retinoids themselves.
Examples:
💜Bakuchiol — extracted from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant
💜Alfalfa extract, rosehip oil — rich in natural vitamin A precursors.
Have You Experienced Irritation from Retinol?
Retinol is one of the most well-researched and effective ingredients in skincare. It’s known to reduce fine lines, even skin tone, and improve texture. However, for many people, retinol’s benefits come with significant side effects, including redness, flaking, irritation, and increased sensitivity to the sun.
If you’ve tried retinol and had this experience, you’re not alone. Many skin types simply don’t tolerate retinol well, especially sensitive or reactive skin. Others avoid it due to pregnancy or breastfeeding, when retinol isn’t considered safe.
Fortunately, skincare has evolved. Modern alternatives now offer similar benefits to retinol without the harsh side effects. In this post, I’ll cover how retinol works, why it can be problematic, and which alternatives may be a better option for your skin.
Modern Alternatives to Retinol
Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is a plant-based ingredient that activates similar pathways as retinol. It helps:
Reduce fine lines
Improve firmness
Even skin tone
Clinical studies have shown that it provides comparable results to retinol with significantly less irritation. It is also safe for use during pregnancy.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Niacinamide offers multiple skin benefits:
Strengthens the skin barrier
Reduces inflammation
Balances oil production
Brightens skin tone
At 5% or higher, niacinamide can improve skin appearance within a few weeks.
Peptides
Peptides encourage the skin to produce more collagen and elastin. While they do not increase cell turnover like retinol, they help improve skin firmness and elasticity, and are suitable for sensitive skin.
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is another well-tolerated option. It helps:
Calm redness
Brighten hyperpigmentation
Reduce acne
Improve skin texture
It is also safe during pregnancy.
Other Options
AHAs (glycolic acid): Provide gentle exfoliation
Vitamin C: Offers antioxidant protection and helps even skin tone
How to Decide Between Retinol and Alternatives
Retinol may be right for you if:
Your skin tolerates it
You want dramatic anti-aging results
You are prepared to commit to a slow, consistent routine
Alternatives may be better if:
You have experienced irritation from retinol
You have sensitive or reactive skin
You are pregnant or breastfeeding
You prefer gentler, more flexible ingredients
In many cases, people alternate between retinol and gentler alternatives, adjusting their routine seasonally or as their skin changes.
How Retinol Works
Retinol is a form of vitamin A. When applied to the skin, it is converted into retinoic acid, which interacts with skin cells and stimulates cell turnover and collagen production.
This process can lead to:
Smoother skin texture
Fewer fine lines and wrinkles
Improved tone and brightness
Reduced clogged pores and breakouts
Over-the-counter retinol products typically require 3 to 6 months to show visible results, with continued improvement occurring over 6 to 12 months of consistent use.
Why Retinol May Not Be Right for Everyone
Despite its benefits, retinol can cause a range of side effects:
Redness
Dryness and flaking
Burning or stinging
Increased sun sensitivity
Those with sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema, or a compromised skin barrier often find retinol too irritating. Retinol is also not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
Even for those with normal skin, retinol requires careful use:
Start with low concentrations (0.25–0.5%)
Introduce slowly (1–2 times per week at first)
Apply only at night (sunlight breaks it down)
Use sunscreen daily
If your skin doesn’t tolerate retinol well, or if you’re looking for an alternative during certain life stages, there are effective options available.
Violet-Tinted Final Considerations
Consistency is key with any skincare ingredient. Even gentler options, such as bakuchiol or niacinamide, require regular use to deliver their full benefits.
Daily sunscreen (UVA and UVB) remains essential.Check my post about stick SPF here. Both retinol and its alternatives leave the skin more vulnerable to UV damage. Without sun protection, results will be diminished.
If you’ve struggled with retinol, know that modern alternatives can deliver excellent results with fewer risks. Your skincare routine should be built around what works for your skin, not what’s most popular.
I'm interested in knowing which one you would choose. Tell me in the comments. Or come visit me on Instagram @violettextsbynina. I'd love to see you there as well.🙂
Always in your corner (and cabinet!)
Nina.
Comments